On the statistical analysis of ocean wave directional spectra

Jesús Portilla-Yandún, Francesco Barbariol, Alvise Benetazzo, Luigi Cavaleri

Producción científica: Contribución a una revistaArtículorevisión exhaustiva

16 Citas (Scopus)


Given the growing availability of directional spectra of ocean waves, we explore two different statistical approaches to mine large spectra databases: Spectral Partitions Statistics (SPS) and Self-Organizing Maps (SOM). The first method is not new in the literature, while the second one is for the first time here applied to directional wave spectra. The main goal is to improve the characterization of the directional wave climate at a site, providing a more complete and consistent description than that obtained from traditional statistical methods based on integral spectral parameters (e.g., Hs, Tm, θm). Indeed, while the use of integral parameters allows a direct application of standard techniques for statistical analysis, important information related to the physics of the processes may be overlooked (e.g., the presence of multiple wave systems, for instance locally and remotely generated). The two proposed methods do not exclude integral parameters analysis, but they further allow accounting for different events (e.g., with different genesis) independently. Although SPS and SOM are equally valid for both numerical model and observational data, we illustrate their potential using a 37-year long (1979–2015) model dataset of directional wave spectra at a study site in the western Mediterranean Sea. We show that standard integral parameters fail to show the complex and even multimodal conditions at this site, that are otherwise revealed by the directional spectra statistical analysis. Although the processing pathways and the resulting indicators of both SPS and SOM are substantially different, we observe that their results are mutually consistent, and provide a better insight into the physical processes at work.

Idioma originalInglés
Número de artículo106361
PublicaciónOcean Engineering
EstadoPublicada - 1 oct. 2019
Publicado de forma externa


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